Chop & Brew – Episode 03: Brewing for 311 and Dre Day

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In this episode, we’re making homebrew inspired by music. Come along as we brew a few beers in tribute of one of Chip’s favorite all-time bands — 311. And what Dre Day would be complete without some hand-crafted super-pilsener malt liquor to get the party started? We got that, too! There’s all kinds of awesomeness in store for you. [Original postdate: March 11, 2013 – 311 DAY!]

Downloadable version at Vimeo:
https://vimeo.com/61503621

Related Links:
311
P-Nut on Twitter
Dr. Dre
311 Day Homebrew Recipes
Dre Day Malt Liquor Recipe
Drew Beechum Blog
Episode Music by Odile (Chip’s band from college days, very 311-y)
Will Byington Photography
Burlesque of North America
Dre Day co-brewer Karl Engebretson’s design & illustration portfolio including many beer/brewing-related projects.

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18 Comments

  1. Morten

    Nice, something to look forward to after finishing work in ~3 hours 🙂

  3. Large Lad

    Great idea Chip Walton. Got me planning a Hiero Day brew for 9/3. Maybe a “’93 til Infinity” IIPA at 1.093…….

    • badass

      Yeah I’m alive….:That’s just pride….In the words of Marsallus Wallace “you may feel a slight sting. That’s pride fucking with you. Fuck pride. Pride only hurts, it never helps.”

  5. Jake Olson

    Hey CHip, can you enlighten me as to why you added the sugary syrup to the fermentor? I have a batch that seems to have stopped bubbling too fast. (English IPA 20 min boil kit from Midwest) I don’t know if the basement was too cold. I was thinking of adding a couple cups of simple syrup to the secondary to get it going again before bottling this weekend. What do you think?

    • chopandbrew

      I’m not the best at technical stuff like this, so I asked Chris Paynes to respond and, man, did you open Pandora’s Box.
      His reply:

      The slow down in fermentation after a few days is very normal, especially with English yeasts which are known to flocculate and drop out of solution quicker than American yeasts. From a visual standpoint
      the early stages of fermentation is far more active than the latter. What you are seeing at the beginning is very happy yeast ripping through those easy to metabolize simple sugars in your wort. Things begin to dramatically slow down when the simple sugars are consumed and yeast realizes it has to find a way to break down and consume the more complex sugars left.

      In order to do this the yeast need to focus on sending out enzymes to break down the complex sugars into simple sugars. Essentially this enzymatic process will be simultaneous with the consumption of the newly created simple sugar. So your airlock may not indicate much activity, but there may still be fermentation happening. Not to mention diacetyl and acetaldehyde clean up. Thise enzymatic process can be confused for a stop in fermentation but more realistically if you have healthy yeast they are just working to break down and consume the more complex sugars. Now if your final gravity does not drop for 2-3 days then chances are your yeast are done consuming sugars.

      So if I were in this situation I would do the following:
      1. Leave your beer in primary. Don’t transfer it to secondary off of the yeast.
      2a. Move fermentation vessel to a warmer area if possible.
      2b. If a warmer location is out of the question, just wait longer for the fermentation to terminate. Some ale yeast are capable of working low into the 50 degree range. It is a lot slower process but there is still activity going.
      3. Rouse the yeast by giving the vessel a gentle swirl.
      4. Add the sugar syrup when the activity begins to slow down and the yeast will kick back up temporarily. This will affect the final gravity, the malt balance of your beer and will certainly add more
      alcohol. This may make your beer slightly different than what you wanted so don’t go too heavy-handed with the sugar otherwise you may end up with a very thin bodied alcohol bomb of a beer.
      ———————————————
      TIPS FOR NEXT TIME
      1. Yeast Starter (If you didn’t already make one for this batch)
      2. Use yeast nutrient in both the starter and in the last 15 min of the boil
      3. Aerate prior to pitching your yeast
      4. Aerate once again 12-18 hours after pitching your yeast
      5. Gradually raise the temp after the first 3-5 days of fermentation. Stay under 80 degrees.
      6. Swirl your fermentation vessel when you see that English Yeast starting to drop out.

      -Cheers!

      • Jake Olson

        Chris and Chip, you guys are awesome! Thanks for the amazing tips. That really is JUST the package of information I needed. You guys are lucky I don’t live closer to da cities, or I’d be stalking you all until I get invited to hang out on some brew days :). I’m still yet to meet any fellow home brewers since moving to Mora MN 8 months ago. It’ll come though. It’s great to be brewing again!

        Keep up the good work.

  7. Pingback: Chop & Brew: New Locally Produced Homebrew Podcast

  8. Machine Elf

    Awesome episode – you should have an Amazon.com wish list so we can buy Bryon some crampons
    chop4chop/brew4brew

  10. Mike N

    Love the mid to late ’90s music. Best ever. Maybe even a little early 2000s.

  11. John Krahling

    Looking through my $hitter Copy of Zymurgy magazine I came across – don’t know how I missed it – story about THE NAZZ with Drew Beechum ….. I brewed a similar before I read it and didn’t take in account much advice in the story….. However so many similarities. I just tapped it a bit later than liked about two months old but not too bad. 10lbs Two Row – a few grains with Target Bitter and Cascade Aroma brewed in a bag splitting the Sparge in half 4.5/4.5 full boil all grain deal – 10PSI Keg. Pretty good with a malty earthy start and a dry finish with Safale 05. Party on !! I think you should come out to Wisconsin and Brew a Batch with a Nice Rack of Rib’s on the Big Green Egg – Certainly a Video!!. JDK Email me if your up to it !!

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