This homebrew recipe for an all New Zealand hopped Pale Ale comes to us by way of Two Weeks Notice Brewing Company co-founder and head brewer Mark Avery, who also – like us – happens to be a huge fan of the band 311. The beer is named after a song from the band’s Transistor album, and comes original with a lot of tropical fruit and some of those “funky” Southern Hemisphere hops. Below the recipe and process notes you’ll find a few bonus notes from Mark that he sent along with the recipe. If you rock with BeerSmith software, here is a quick link to the recipe file to open and adjust for your homebrewing system with the program.
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Stealing Happy Hours New Zealand Pale Ale
Recipe courtesy: Mark Avery/Two Weeks Notice Brewing Co.
Batch Size: 5 gallons
OG: 1.053
FG: 1.013
ABV: 5.3%
IBU: 30
SRM: 4.9
Fermentables
- 8 lbs 2-Row Pale Malt – 78.5%
- 1 lbs Flaked Oats – 9.8%
- 10.0 oz Biscuit Malt – 6.1%
- 9.0 oz Carafoam – 5.5%
Hops
- 0.48 oz Apollo [17.00%aa] – 60 minutes – 27.7 IBUs
- 3.00 oz Riwaka [5.25%aa] – Whirlpool – 2.3 IBUs
- 4.0 oz Riwaka – post-fermentation dry hop
- 2.0 oz Moteka [7.00%aa] – post-fermentation dry hop
- 1.04 oz Nelson Sauvin [12.00%aa] – post-fermentation dry hop
Yeast
- Imperial Yeast A38: Juice
Process
Mash grains at 152F for 60 minutes.
Mash out at 168F for 10 minutes. (Optional)
Collect wort and boil for 60 minutes, adding hops per recipe.
Cool wort to 66-68F and pitch yeast. Ferment at 68F initially and allow to free rise. (See Brewer’s Notes below)
Brewer’s Notes from Mark Avery
Not sure what your water treatment is or what the water is like in the St. Paul area [edit note: Chop & Brew’s home base], but here in New England we tend to go soft on the water, so higher chloride. You could also just not treat the water and give it a go!
As far as the yeast, I have used Imperial Yeast’s Juice, but any British ale yeast would work, even S-04 or US-05 would totally work.
The BeerSmith recipe has the 3 oz addition at 1 minute, but it’s really to calculate flameout addition IBUs. I always killed the flame and added them as a whirlpool addition. You can do whatever works best for the equipment being used.
I would cool the wort to 66-68 for the initial pitch. Let it ferment at 68 and then free rise when you hit that 1.020-1.022 range so it can finish strong. I let it rise up to about 73 degrees to finish. With that higher temp it throws some great esters that play well with the Southern Hemisphere hops.
The dry hopping could look like a rather large amount, so if you think that may be too much, you can always dial the amounts back. Like I said, our water treatment tends to let us dry hop at a larger rate and still not get any astringency or vegetal off flavors, so just something to think about. For this beer I waited for terminal to hit and diacetyl rest to finish, cooled to 58-60F, and then dry hopped. If you can pull the dead yeast, or transfer to another vessel CO2 purged vessel, that would be optimal but I understand most homebrewers don’t have that option sometimes. Hold the dry hop for 3 to 4 days and then crash and package as you normally would